The question of how to define the role of a fashion designer or creative director for the brand is bothering me.
Many years ago, during fashion week I stayed at the hotel across the street from Lanvin's office. The street is narrow and every night I could see Alber Elbaz working on the dress: sewing, pressing, re-doing...
Before today, Pharrell Williams, ahead of his debut at LV, was super busy - promoting. Interviews were given to every publication from Vogue to Highsnobiety, “I am the client,” assented Williams, and I plan to double down on bags... The First campaign as creative director of menswear is featuring a pregnant Rihanna (It's men's but who cares, if you are friendly with Rihanna, right?). Besides the interviews, there is a pop-up with Adidas - “Samba Café,” the event will take place inside The Broken Arm boutique, located at 12 Rue Perrée, from June 22 to 24. And, an Avant premiere exhibition:
From June 20, 2023, to June 24, 2023.
Exposition Pharell Williams (Joopiter) x Sarah Andelman
Avenue Matignon
75008 Paris 8
And finally - the SHOW...
We live in times when inequality is more visible than ever. The difference between 1% and the rest of us is becoming obsolete. And LVSS24 was all about this. It was not an RTW collection or handbag collection. It was all about money and power: more uber expansive bags (models held multiple bags at once), Damier—the brand’s version of checkerboard print first introduced in 1889 was embossed into expensive leather and showcased as a part of almost half of the collection, “Damouflage” by Williams, this new print is a combination of Damier and classic camouflage—slightly pixelated (Loewe two seasons ago) and a bit distressed was a focal point of the second part. It was no specific style or direction - just over-the-top something:" Look at me. I am wearing half a million dollars worth of clothing, jewelry, bags shoes. And all it is LV!". Millions of people worked on this, the most important stars and influencers attended this, and hundreds of millions of dollars were spent on this. LVMH this night started a new fashion cycle and answer my question: what is the role of the designer?
All the conversations about sustainability, quiet luxury, etc are not relevant when you are looking at this Great Gatsby party of 2023. However, we are in Paris and it is a feeling that fashion will uprise, just like sans-culottes:))
We need meaning and talent. We have enough of Rhiannas (no album for 5 years). LVMH hijacked the fashion business and revolution is necessary:))
And... at the end of the show, the guests were served chicken nuggets. How cute and democratic.